K-2 Pride of Pakistan

K-2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth. It is located in the Karakoram range, on the border between the Gilgit-Baltistan region of the Pakistan administered Northern Areas.
The other name is Chogori, a synthetic name made up by Western explorers early in the 20th century from two Balti words, chhogo ('big') and ri ('mountain').

CLIMBING HISTORY
The mountain was first surveyed by a European survey team in 1856. Thomas Montgomerie was the member of the team who designated it "K2" for being the second peak of the Karakoram range. The other peaks were originally named K1, K3, K4 and K5, but were eventually renamed Masherbrum, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I respectively.
The first serious attempt to climb K2 was organized and undertaken in 1902 by Oscar Eckenstein and Aleister Crowley, but after five serious and costly attempts, no member of the team actually reached the summit, possibly due to a combination of questionable physical training, personality conflicts, and poor weather conditions — of 68 days spent on K2 (at the time, the record for longest time spent at such an altitude) only eight provided clear weather.
Subsequent attempts to climb the mountain in 1909, 1934, 1938, 1939 and 1953 also ended in failure. The 1909 expedition, led by Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi, reached an elevation of 6,666 m on what is now known as the Abruzzi Spur (or Abruzzi Ridge). This is considered part of the standard route today; see the route section below.
An Italian expedition finally succeeded in ascending to the summit of K2 on July 31, 1954. The expedition was led by Ardito Desio, although the two climbers who actually reached the top were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni. The team included a Pakistani member, Colonel Muhammad Ata-ullah. He had been a part of an earlier 1953 American expedition which failed to make the summit because of a storm which killed a key climber, Art Gilkey. On the expedition also was the famous Italian climber Walter Bonatti. He proved vital to the expeditions success in that he carried vital oxygen to 26,600ft for Lacedelli and Compagnoni. His dramatic bivouac, at that altitude with the equipment, wrote another chapter in the sage of Himalayan climbing.
On August 9, 1977, 23 years after the Italian expedition, Ichiro Yoshizawa led the second successful ascent to the top; with Ashraf Amman as the first native Pakistani climber. The Japanese expedition ascended through the Abruzzi Spur route traced by the Italians, and used more than 1,500 porters to achieve the goal.

The year 1978 saw the third ascent of K2, via a new route, the long, corniced East Ridge. (The top of the route traversed left across the East Face to avoid a vertical headwall and joined the uppermost part of the Abruzzi route.) This ascent was made by an American team, led by noted mountaineer James Whittaker; the summit party were Louis Reichardt, James Wickwire, John Roskelley, and Rick Ridgeway. Wickwire endured an overnight bivouac about 150 m below the summit, one of the highest bivouacs in climbing history. This ascent was emotional for the American team, as they saw themselves as completing a task that had been begun by the 1938 team forty years earlier.

Another notable Japanese ascent was that of the difficult North Ridge (see route information below), on the Chinese side of the peak, in 1982. A team from the Mountaineering Association of Japan led by Isao Shinkai and Masatsugo Konishi put three members, Naoe Sakashita, Hiroshi Yoshino, and Yukihiro Yanagisawa, on the summit on August 14. However Yanagisawa fell and died on the descent. Four other members of the team achieved the summit the next day.
The first climber to summit K2 twice was a Czech climber Josef Rakoncaj. Josef was a member of the 1983 Italian expedition led by Francesco Santon, which made the second successful ascent of the North Ridge (7/31/1983). Three years later, on 7/5/1986, he summitted on the Abruzzi Spur (double with Broad Peak West Face solo) as a member of Agostino da Polenza's international expedition.

The peak has now been climbed by almost all of its ridges. Although the summit of Everest is at a higher altitude, K2 is considered a more difficult climb, due in part to its terrible weather and comparatively greater height above surrounding terrain. The mountain is believed by many to be the world's most difficult and dangerous climb, hence its nickname "the Savage Mountain." As of November 2007, only 280 people have completed the ascent, compared with about 2,600 individuals who have ascended the more popular target of Everest. At least 66 people have died attempting the climb; 13 climbers from several expeditions died in 1986 in the K2 Tragedy during a severe storm.
Legend once had it that K2 carried a "curse on women." The first woman to reach the summit was Wanda Rutkiewicz, of Poland, in 1986. The next five women to reach the summit are all deceased — three of them died on the way down, among them fêted British mountaineer Alison Hargreaves in 1995. Rutkiewicz herself died on Kangchenjunga in 1992. However, the "curse" was broken in 2004 when Edurne Pasaban summitted and descended successfully, and again in 2006 when Nives Meroi of Italy and Yuka Komatsu of Japan became, respectively, the seventh and eighth women to summit K2, both descending successfully.
For most of its climbing history, K2 was not usually climbed with bottled oxygen, and small, relatively lightweight teams were the norm.[10][11] However the 2004 season saw a great increase in the use of oxygen: 28 of 47 summitters used oxygen in that year.[12]

CLIMBING ROUTES AND DIFFICULTIES
There are a number of routes on K2, of somewhat different character, but they all share some key difficulties: First is the extreme high altitude and resulting lack of oxygen: in fact there is only one third as much oxygen available to a climber on the summit of K2 as there is at sea level.[13] Second is the propensity of the mountain to extreme storms of several days' duration, which have resulted in many of the deaths on the peak. Third is the steep, exposed, and committing nature of all routes on the mountain, which makes retreat more difficult, especially during a storm.

ABRUZZI SPUR
arl Drew climbing ladders on Abruzzi Spur. Photo by Abdul Aziz
The standard route of ascent, used far more than any other route, is the Abruzzi Spur[10][11], first attempted by Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi in 1909 (see the history above). This is the southeast ridge of the peak, rising above the Godwin Austen Glacier. The spur proper begins at an altitude of 5,400 m, where Advanced Base Camp is usually placed. The route follows an alternating series of rock ribs, snow/ice fields, and some technical rock climbing on two famous features, "House's Chimney" and the "Black Pyramid." Above the Black Pyramid, dangerously exposed and difficult to navigate slopes lead to the easily visible "Shoulder," and thence to the summit. The last major obstacle is a narrow couloir known as the "Bottleneck," which places climbers dangerously close to a wall of seracs which form an ice cliff to the east of the summit. (It was partly due to the collapse of one of these seracs around 2001 that no climbers summited the peak in 2002 and 2003.)[12]

NORTH RIDGE
Almost opposite from the Abruzzi Spur is the North Ridge[10][11], which ascends the Chinese side of the peak. It is rarely climbed, partly due to very difficult access, involving crossing the Shaksgam River, which is a hazardous undertaking.[14]. In contrast to the crowds of climbers and trekkers at the Abruzzi basecamp, usually at most two teams are encamped below the North Ridge. This route, more technically difficult than the Abruzzi, ascends a long, steep, primarily rock ridge to high on the mountain (Camp IV, the "Eagle's Nest", 7,900 m), and then crosses a dangerously slide-prone hanging glacier by a leftward climbing traverse, to reach a snow couloir which accesses the summit.
Besides the original Japanese ascent (see the History section), a notable ascent of the North Ridge was the one in 1990 by Greg Child, Greg Mortimer, and Steve Swenson, which was done alpine style (though using some fixed ropes already put in place by previous teams)

OTHER ROUTES
Northeast Ridge (long and corniced; finishes on uppermost part of Abruzzi route), 1978.
West Ridge, 1981.
Southwest Pillar or "Magic Line", very technical, and second most demanding, first made in 1986 by Polish-Slovak trio Piasecki-Wroz-Bozik , since than despite many tries by several climbers tried to repeat and no one made it until 2004 Jordi Corominas.
South Face or "Polish Line", (extremely exposed and most dangerous) in 1986 Jerzy Kukuczka and Tadeusz Piotrowski did first and only ascent on this route, it was called by Messner a suicidal route and until now no one ever tried to repeat their achievement.
Northwest Face, 1990.
Northwest Ridge (finishing on North Ridge), first ascent 1991.
South-southeast spur or "Cesen route" (finishing on Abruzzi route; a possibly safer alternative to the Abruzzi), 1994.
West Face (technical difficulty at high altitude), 2007.

TOPOGRAPHIC CHARACTERISTICS
K2 is only ranked 22nd by topographic prominence, a measure of a mountain's independent stature, because it is part of the same extended area of uplift (including the Karakoram, the Tibetan Plateau, and the Himalaya) as Mount Everest, in that it is possible to follow a path from K2 to Everest that goes no lower than 4,594 m (at Mustang Lo). Many other peaks which are far lower than K2 are more independent in this sense.
However, K2 is notable for its local relief as well as its total height. It stands over 3,000 m (9,840 ft) above much of the glacial valley bottoms at its base. More extraordinary is the fact that it is a consistently steep pyramid, dropping quickly in almost all directions. The north side is the steepest: there it rises over 3,200 m (10,500 ft) above the K2 (Qogir) Glacier in only 3 km (1.8 mi) of horizontal distance. In most directions, it achieves over 2,800 m (9,200 ft) of vertical relief in less than 4 km (2.4 mi).[15] This degree of steepness, at this vertical scale, in so many different directions, is unmatched in the world.

Young and pretty lady wishes to marry a rich guy. Fantastic reply from a financial person

A young and pretty lady posted this on a popular forum:
Title: What should I do to marry a rich guy?I'm going to be honest of what I'm going to say here. I'm 25 this year. I'm very pretty, have style
and good taste. I wish to marry a guy with $500k annual salary or above. You might say that I'm
greedy, but an annual salary of $1M is considered only as middle class in New York . My requirement is
not high. Is there anyone in this forum who has an income of $500k annual salary? Are you all married?
I wanted to ask: what should I do to marry rich persons like you? Among those I've dated, the
richest is $250k annual income, and it seems that this is my upper limit. If someone is going to move
into high cost residential area on the west of New York City Garden ( ? ) , $250k annual income is not enough.

I'm here humbly to ask a few questions:
1) Where do most rich bachelors hang out?
(Please list down the n ame s and addresses of bars, restaurant, gym)
2) Which age group should I target?
3) Why most wives of the riches is only average-looking? I've met a few girls who doesn't
have looks and are not interesting, but they are able to marry rich guys
4) How do you decide who can be your wife, and who can only be your girlfriend?

(my target now is to get married)
Ms. Pretty

Here's a reply from a Wall Street Financial guy:

Dear Ms. Pretty,

I have read your post with great interest. Guess there are lots of girls out there who have similar
questions like yours. Please allow me to analyze your situation as a professional investor. My annual
income is more than $500k, which meets your requirement, so I hope everyone believes that I'm
not wasting time here.

>From the standpoint of a business person, it is a bad decision to marry you. The answer is very
simple, so let me explain. Put the details aside, what you're trying to do is an exchange of 'beauty'
and 'money': Person A provides beauty, and Person B pays for it, fair and square. However, there's a
deadly problem here, your beauty will fade, but my money will not be gone without any good reason. The
fact is, my income might increase from year to year, but you can't be prettier year after year. Hence
from the viewpoint of economics, I am an appreciation asset, and you are a depreciation
asset. It's not just normal depreciation, but exponential depreciation. If that is your only
asset, your value will be much worried 10 years later.

By the terms we use in Wall Street, every trading has a position, dating with you is also a 'trading
position'. If the trade value dropped we will sell it and it is not a good idea to keep it for long
term ' same goes with the marriage that you wanted. It might be cruel to say this, but in order to make
a wiser decision any assets with great depreciation value will be sold or 'leased'. Anyone with over
$500k annual income is not a fool; we would only date you, but will not marry you. I would advice
that you forget looking for any clues to marry a rich guy. And by the way, you could make yourself to
become a rich person with $500k annual income. This has better chance than finding a rich fool.

Hope this reply helps. If you are interested in 'leasing' services, do contact me
signed,

J.P. Morgan

THIS IS MARKETING!!

You see a gorgeous girl at a party, you go up to her and say, "I am
very rich, marry me!"
"This is direct marketing".

You are at a party with a bunch of friends and see a gorgeous girl.
One of your friends goes up to her and pointing at you says: "He is
very rich marry him".
"This is advertising" .

You see a gorgeous girl at a party. You go up to her and get her
telephone number. The next day you call and say:"Hi, I am very rich.
Marry me!"
"That is telemarketing" .

You see a gorgeous girl at a party. You go up to her and say:"Hi, I
am very rich, marry me". She gives you a nice hard slap on your face.
"That's customer feedback".

Some Intresting facts

Here are something's you may not know......

1. Coca-Cola was originally green.
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2. The most common name in the world is Mohammed.
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3. The name of all the continents ends with the same letter that they start with.
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4. The strongest muscle in the body is the tongue.
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5. There are two credit cards for every person in the United States .
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6. TYPEWRITER is the longest word that can be made using the letters only on one row of the keyboard.
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7. Women blink nearly twice as much as men!
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8. You can't kill yourself by holding your breath..
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9. It is impossible to lick your elbow.
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10. People say "Bless you" when you sneeze because when you Sneeze, your heart stops for a millisecond.
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11. It is physically impossible for pigs to look up into the sky.
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12. The "sixth sick sheik's sixth sheep's sick" is said to be the toughest tongue twister in the English language.
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13. If you sneeze too hard, you can fracture a rib. If you try to Suppress a sneeze; you can rupture a blood vessel in your head or neck and die.
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14. Each king in a deck of playing cards represents great king from History.
"Spades" - King David;
"Clubs" - Alexander the Great;
" Hearts" - Charlemagne;
"Diamonds" - Julius Caesar.
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15. 111,111,111 x 111,111,111 = 12,345,678,987, 654,321
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16. If a statue of a warrior on a horse has both front legs in the air, the person died in battle. If the
horse has one front leg in the air, the person died as a result of wounds received in battle.
If the horse has a all four legs on the ground, the person died of natural causes.
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17 What do bullet proof vests, fire escapes, windshield wipers and laser printers all have in common?
Ans. - All invented by women.
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18. Honey - This is the only food that doesn't spoil.
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19. A crocodile cannot stick its tongue out.
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20. A snail can sleep for three years.
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21. All polar bears are left handed.
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22. American Airlines saved $40,000 in 1987 by eliminating one olive from each salad served in first-class.
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23. Butterflies taste with their feet.
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24. Elephants are the only animals that can't jump.
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25. In the last 4000 years, no new animals have been domesticated.
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26. On average, people fear spiders more than they do death.
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27. Shakespeare invented the word 'assassination' and 'bump'.
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28. Stewardesses is the longest word typed with only the left hand.
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29. The ant always falls over on its right side when intoxicated.
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30. The electric chair was invented by a dentist.
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31. The human heart creates enough pressure when it pumps out to the body to squirt blood 30 feet.
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32. Rats multiply so quickly that in 18 months, two rats could have over million descendants.
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33. Wearing headphones for just an hour will increase the bacteria in your ear by 700 times.
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34. The cigarette lighter was invented before the match.
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35. Most lipstick contains fish scales.
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36. Like fingerprints, everyone's tongue print is different
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37. And finally 99% of people who read this will try to lick their elbow.
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NICE TO KNOW THIS

1. Chewing on gum while cutting onions can help a Person from stop producing tears. Try it next time you chop onions!!!!!! !!!!

2. Until babies are six months old, they can breathe and swallow at the same time. Indeed convenient!

3. Offered a new pen to write with, 97% of all people will write their own name.


4. Male mosquitoes are vegetarians. Only females bite.
5. The average person's field of vision encompasses a 200-degree wide angle.


6. To find out if a watermelon is ripe, knock it, and if it sounds hollow Then it is ripe.


7. Canadians can send letters with personalized postage stamps showing their own photos on each stamp.


8. Babies' eyes do not produce tears until the baby is approximately six to eight weeks old.


9. It snowed in the Sahara Desert in February of 1979.


10. Plants watered with warm water grow larger and more quickly than plants watered with cold water.


11. Wearing headphones for just an hour will increase the bacteria in your ear by 700 times.


12. Grapes explode when you put them in the microwave.


13. Those stars and colours you see when you rub your eyes are called phosphenes.


14. Our eyes are always the same size from birth, but our nose and ears Never stop growing.


15. Everyone's tongue print is different, like fingerprints.


16. Contrary to popular belief, a swallowed chewing gum doesn't stay in the gut. It will pass through the system and be excreted.


17. At 40 Centigrade a person loses about 14. 4 calories per hour by Breathing.


18. There is a hotel in Sweden built entirely out of ice; it is rebuilt Every year.


19. Cats, camels and giraffes are the only animals in the world that walk Rightfoot, right foot, left foot, left foot, rather than right foot,left Foot...


20. Onions help reduce cholesterol if eaten after a fatty meal.


21. The sound you hear when you crack your knuckles is actually the sound of nitrogen gas bubbles bursting.


22. In most watch advertisements the time displayed on the watch is 10:10 because then the arms frame the brand of the watch And make it look like it's smiling.


23. The color blue can have a calming affect on people.


24. Depending upon the shade, the brain may send up to 11 tranquilizing Chemicals to calm the body


25. Leonardo DA Vinci could write with the one hand and draw with the other simultaneously. Now we know why his pictures were exquisite!!


26. Names of the three wise monkeys are: Mizaru (See no evil), Mikazaru(Hear no evil), and Mazaru (Speak no evil).


27. The only 2 animals that can see behind itself without turning it's head are the rabbit and parrot.


28. The only 15 letter word that can be spelled without repeating a letter is uncopyrightable.


29. Babies are born without knee caps. They don't appear until the child Reaches 2-6 years of age


30. The names of the continents all end with the same letter with which they start.


31. Electricity doesn't move through a wire but through a field around the wire.


32. All U.S. Presidents have worn glasses; some of them just didn't like to be seen wearing them in public.


33. No word in the English language rhymes with month, orange, silver, and purple.


34. Raw cashews are poisonous and must be roasted before.

Lasers May Provide Hard Disk Speed Bump

Using the angular velocity of photons, researchers demonstrate ultra high-speed reads and writes to a magnetic medium.
Researchers at Radboud University Nijmegen in the Netherlands have devised a way of using the angular momentum of photons in pulses of laser light to interact with a magnetic medium to change its polarity. The technique is very fast—they achieved data transfer speeds roughly 100 times that of current hard disk read-write mechanisms.

This sort of data storage has been tried before, but previous efforts have failed because the magnetic medium they attempted to use. The Dutch researchers employed a new substance composed of gadolinium, iron, and cobalt, which responded better to the laser pulses. The challenge for the team now is to reduce the size of the area on the disk affected by the laser pulse. It is currently far too wide, resulting in very low data density on the magnetic disk.
Don't expect the technology to appear on store shelves tomorrow, however. The first working prototypes of disks using this technology are likely a decade away.

Top 7 reasons why I joined IT ...(humor)

1) I hated sleep.


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2) I had enjoyed my life enough.


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3) I couldn't live without tension.


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4) I wanted to pay for my sins.


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5) I believed in principle : karm karo , phal ki arzoo na karo..


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6) Everything in life has a reason; I wanted to prove it wrong.


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7) I wanted to take revenge on myself .